Before we get lost in the cracks of the landslide that is the Holiday season, let’s address winter’s darkly decadent mood: velvet-to-the-touch essentials; disco dresses dripping in sequins; the new shoe-of-the-season; and, of course, the resurrected sheer blouse and pleated skirt. 

 

 

As fashion’s love affair with the 1970’s continues, so do all the luscious fabrics associated with the decade. Velvet has reigned this season in both day and evening wear, allowing one to appear rich and regal in the sun as well as after dark. The fabric adds a tasteful amount of grandeur to the simple pant or jacket, turning an understated outfit into a statement. On Sonia Rykiel’s Fall ’15 ready-to-wear runway, shearling and corduroy were indeed abound; however, the blue velvet jumpsuit, debuting toward the latter half of the show, made for an instant delight. Featuring a peephole neckline, one couldn’t help but imagine how perfect the suit would make for a night out dancing.

 

As darker nights and colder days roll in, a need for frivolity and chic debauchery arises. This is where the dazzling disco dress steps in: a short, shimmering, and unapologetically fun piece. During its Fall ’15 collection, the Emilio Pucci atelier debuted two notable dresses, the turtleneck and the asymmetric, on model Julia Van Os and Nastya Sten respectively. It was creative director, Peter Dundas’ last collection for Emilio Pucci. Reasons for the creative director’s departure from the fashion house are still not clear; but a change in artistic direction appears to be the most plausible explanation. Over his six-year tenure at Emilio Pucci, Dundas’ sought to turn the blue-blooded into the hot-blooded—essentially sexualizing the brand, as Tom Ford did to Gucci in the 90’s—however, Pucci’s higher-ups have a more conservative vision in mind for the house.

 

There is something surprisingly seductive about a narrow, angled strap resting softly over the bareback of a woman’s ankle. In a world of embellishments, laces, zips, and buckles, the simplicity of the gesture call-to-mind a simpler age. And, by the mention of simple, that does not mean outdated. The slingback has proven this season to be flirtier than the kitten, and more elegant than the tired platform. In varying shades of suede, patent, and velvet, the shoe transitions seamlessly from day to night—just opt for longer hemmed skirt and team it with metallic pleats for extra wattage. Let’s face it, it’s time to place the much-Instagrammed, Valentino rock-stud heels back in the closet…for now.

 

The reigning evening essential this winter is undoubtedly the sheer blouse: transparent fabric creates an effect of conceal and simultaneous reveal. Opt for an embroidered silk-chiffon Chloé or a slightly- monochromatic Maison Margiela blouse for a winter cocktail party or rooftop business soiree. Pronounced seams line the body, while dramatic collars or bibs of ruffles add an element of both slight embellishment and modernity. Causing controversy when Yves Saint Laurent first debuted the item in 1966, the sheer number hasn’t lost any of its dramatic relevancy.  

And, finally, the much-anticipated pleated skirt. There’s something so very autumn worthy about a pleated skirt, perhaps it’s the fact that it’s time for school to resume, or perhaps it’s the falling leaves. Unlike the demur parochial school skirts, this season’s pleated skirts are thankfully upgraded—in luxe leather; in shimmer, spliced sequin lines; and in box or knife varieties that sway sensually around the knees as one walks. Heavy, Catholic school-girl knit was to be found at Christian Dior; shiny, lightweight metallic floated down the runway at Loewe; sliced lines revealed hidden geometric designs at Etro; and divinely sequined, sheer tulle skirts graced the Valentino show.

 

SILK-CHIFFON SHEER BLOUSE
(Chloé at Net-A-Porter.com)