"Where’s the 150-yard marker?" I asked. I was playing golf last summer at Golf & Country Club de Maison Blanche, a private club in Échenevex, France, just a few miles from Geneva, Switzerland.
My Swiss brother-in-law, Beat Schmied, shook his head. "You mean the 135-meter marker," he replied. "You’re not in San Diego anymore."
He was right. Everything is in meters, I reminded myself. And an American golfer’s best way to determine "yardage" while playing in France was to take the meters and add 10 percent. Thus, 135 meters was 135 yards plus 13 yards for a total of 148 yards.
In other words, 150 yards to the middle of the green. For my hacker abilities, that was close enough.
I’ve played plenty of rounds of golf in France and Switzerland over the years when I travel across the pond with my Swiss-born wife, Nicole, to see her family. Each experience has been awesome. For golfers who’d love to test their games outside the United States, here are some tips that will enhance your tee time.
Tips:
Decide if you’re going on a golf trip or a vacation where you will play golf one or two times. The dynamics of the trip change considerably, depending on the type of trip. Traveling to play six courses in Ireland in one week is one thing, while adding a one-off golf round to a two-week itinerary is another. Be sure to talk through your expectations with your spouse or partner before you head for the airport.
If you’re going for a golf vacation, then look into package deals or traveling with a group from your golf club. There are a zillion different golf packages out there, or your local golf pro can make a recommendation. At some clubs in San Diego, like Morgan Run in Rancho Santa Fe, members have traveled together on all-inclusive European trips that combine travel and sightseeing with several days of golf at private clubs not normally open to the public.
Generally speaking, you can play anywhere—for a price. In Western Europe, golf is played at private clubs; there are no "municipal" courses. Many courses aren’t open to the public unless there’s some sort of arrangement, or they are semi-private and allow outsiders to play—but be prepared to pay a handsome green fee. Courses in Asian tourist areas (Phuket, Thailand, for example) or the Caribbean are wide open to the public.
The most popular international golf destinations are Ireland and Scotland. Every golfer says if you’re going to make an international pilgrimage, these are the places to go. Rancho Santa Fe endodontist Jeff Javelet, who’s made three trips to Ireland and four trips to Scotland said, "It’s nearly a religious experience for someone who loves the game because of the purity and respect they have over there for the game of golf."
It’s not worth taking your clubs. Unless you’re flying in the front of the cabin (first or business class), airlines generally charge $100 to check a second bag on international flights. At $200 round trip to take your clubs, you’d be better off renting clubs unless you’re on a buddy trip and plan to play a half-dozen times. And make sure your golf bag weighs less than 50 pounds.
Be prepared to walk. While many U.S. golf clubs built in the last 25 years are designed with long breaks between holes, necessitating a golf cart (and ensuring a rental fee), European courses are old school—golf is a walking game. That doesn’t mean you can’t rent a cart—also known as buggies in the U.K.—especially if you must for some physical reason, but know that the pace of play revolves around walking foursomes.
If you’re playing in Ireland, be prepared to pay for a caddy. Around 40 percent of the world’s links courses dot the Irish coastline, so golf is a big industry in the Emerald Isle—which means caddies need to be employed. Caddy fees generally run $100 per round, including tip. Be prepared for some acerbic comments. "Can I get there with a five-iron?" may be followed by "Eventually."
Caddy fees are cheap in Asia, often cheaper than renting a buggy. Often times in places like Thailand, caddies are women wearing wide-brim hats to protect themselves from the sun.
Take rain gear with you. Whether you’re playing in the United Kingdom or some tropical island course, it’s rainy compared to San Diego, even in summer.
If you want to play a famous course, good luck. Of course, everyone wants to play St. Andrews in Scotland or Chantilly Vineuil outside of Paris. Check online for how to get on.
If you go on a golfing trip, choose your travel mates wisely. Mark Twain once said, "I have found out that ain’t no surer way to find whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them." That said, you can make awesome memories traveling with friends from your local country club or social group.
Be prepared to make a memory if you do play on your next international trip. There’s just something different about playing on a course outside the United States. It can be the scenery, the way the course is kept, the size and speed of the greens, or the accents you hear from caddies and players around you.
As the French say, Vive la différence!
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