A Weekend Guide to Maastricht

Planning a European vacation usually entails a visit to big-name cities and attractions, so if you’ve booked a trip to the Netherlands, you probably haven’t looked much further than Amsterdam. The seasoned traveler, however, knows that in order to escape hoards of tourists (and all that comes with a tourist economy), you need to venture a bit off of the beaten path. Maastricht, South Holland is only about 2 hours south of Amsterdam by train, but it feels a world away. Nestled about the great River Maas with its sleepy straats and bustling centrums, Maastricht is one of the oldest and best-preserved towns in Northern Europe and has become a popular weekend getaway for Europe’s (arguably more mature) elite. However, the modern luxuries offered by this capital of a well-to-do county hardly detract from its old-world charm: Maastricht’s hybrid of Belgian and Dutch architecture is breathtaking whether you prefer the quaint colonial or the stately Romanesque. Come to Maastricht to shop, relax, cycle, photograph, or to celebrate. And you know those stretchy pants in the back of your closet that you have to wear for a month after the holidays? Bring those––you’ll inevitably be indulging in an absurd amount of carbs. 

Know Where To Stay in Maastricht

Maastricht is situated on both sides of the river Maas, and while you’ll definitely want to explore both the north and the south side, where you’ll stay depends on the amenities you seek. 

The south of the river, home to Vrijhof and Market Squares, has mostly old-world boutique hotels and bed and breakfasts that offer more charm and a better location, but fewer modern amenities. Hotel de Pauwenhof is a boutique hotel just off of Market Square with a dainty façade, elegant rooms, and a Michelin-rated Dutch/French restaurant. 

The north of the river offers the train station and Maastricht’s famous caves. While less quaint and walkable than the south, you’ll find it more commercial, convenient, and in some ways, luxurious. The hip Van der Valk Hotel, less than a mile from the train station, is far from old-world European with its sleek, modern design, but it is one of the few hotels in town that offers a full-service spa, a pool, and a gym. While its restaurant isn’t Michelin-rated, it is more than upscale and offers seasonal dishes and terrace seating for those sought-after warm Dutch days. The hotel also offers a bike rental service, and once you get a glimpse of the crowded bike racks and cyclists swarming the city, you’ll realize it’s the true Dutch way to get around! 

Know What to Eat in Maastricht    

Despite its size, Maastricht is home to some world-class food establishments ranging from messy street fare to exclusive tastings. You’ve probably heard that Dutch food itself isn’t particularly impressive. Whoever told you this wasn’t lying: many find traditional Dutch food to be quite bland, and Dutch interpretations of, for example, Asian foods to be comparatively flavorless. Luckily for you, Maastricht’s multiculturalism surpasses the architectural and you’ll enjoy its enormous French, Belgian, and German culinary influences. While it can be tempting to grab a seat in one of the large patio-style restaurants in any main square and people-watch, be warned that you’re paying for the views and not for quality fare. Doing a little research beforehand or taking a chance at a hole-in-the-wale brasserie can make all the difference and is certainly more helpful in stimulating the local economy.

Every Wednesday and Friday, a huge farmers’ market gives Market Square its name. While it claims to be open from 9am to 4pm, some vendors close earlier, so it’s best to get there before 3. Come hungry as the Market offers more than just produce and flowers: sample local cheeses and meats, artisan sandwiches and burgers, creative organic desserts, Mediterranean breads and tapenades, and perhaps most notably, fresh seafood dishes (try the crab croquettes with a generous squeeze of lime). Most vendors are fluent in English (as well as a handful of other languages, you’ll notice) but be sure to thank each one with a warm "dank je wel!"

One tiny food joint on Market Square has a line out of its door at any given time of day, and the Dutch certainly wouldn’t stand in line for just anything. The rumors have been confirmed: Reitz serves the best fries in Maastricht. Each three-euro order of fries, with toppings ranging from relish to curry ketchup to, in the Dutch style, mayonnaise, is served in an enormous paper cone for you to munch on (or Instagram) while you shop. Just follow your nose; you can’t miss it.

Chateau Neercanne, nestled in Jeker Valley on the Belgian border, is a bit outside of Maastricht itself but is a necessary detour. The ancient terraced palace offers breathtaking panoramic views of the valley and an exclusive Michelin-starred restaurant that has been described by many as the best in the area. You’ll feel like the royalty who dined here so long ago amid its lavish interior, cozy fireplace, and classic but artful entrees. Don’t forget to visit the chateau’s candlelit wine cellar, hidden in the passageways of the marl caves and boasting not only a superb wine list but also the original wall inscriptions of numerous wine-lovers throughout the centuries. 

Know Where to Explore in Maastricht

Spending the weekend in Maastricht grants you the opportunity to pursue the perfect balance of activity and relaxation. Start your morning, after picking up an espresso at KOFFIE, with a leisurely walk along the city’s medieval wall, defending Maastricht since the Roman era. After crossing de Hoge Brug, the pedestrian bridge stretching across the Maas, explore the caves below St Pietersberg hill with an informative guided tour. Whether or not you’re a book lover, you can’t miss the Bookstore Dominicanen near Vrijthof, a bookstore within an enormous 13^th-century Dominican Cathedral characterized by a magnificently preserved interior. 

When you’re ready for some retail therapy, weave your way among Maastricht’s narrow cobblestones streets near the city center to discover its dynamic selection of couture and more. A fashionista favorite is Stokstraat by the Maas, stocking unexpectedly exclusive labels in high-end boutique settings. If you’re up for a night out after your long day, this area also offers bars and clubs for the trendy, the rowdy, or the alternative, and don’t worry about a designated driver: your hotel is likely a short, pleasurable walk home. 

Know When To Book in Maastricht

Maastricht’s festivals are nothing short of whimsical but are few and far between, so choose wisely and book in advance before the city’s best hotels are full. Some favorites include the prestigious TEFAF Art Festival in March, attracting art connoisseurs, antique collectors, and jetsetters worldwide, The WE Festival for sustainability and creativity in May, and the MJazz Festival for the jazz lover in various months. Last but not least, nobody celebrates European Carnaval in late February quite like the Maastrichtians do in every town square, but keep in mind that an over-the-top costume, a love of crowds, and an open mind (and bottle) are mandatory for all attendees.