Itze Behar's Latest Creation: Tavern in Coronado

I have long been perplexed by the question of how one restaurant can satisfy the diverse palettes of thousands of individuals. At a glance, it seems a feat too enormous to overcome; with so many particular tongues and varying backgrounds, how could one menu satisfy such an expanse of tastes? The answer to this questions came to me shortly after stepping down the candlelit stairway that leads into Tavern - the latest restaurant in Coronado.

Tavern 

1310 Orange Ave, Coronado, CA 92118

(619) 437-0611 coronadotavern.com

Located in the heart of Coronado Island along Orange Avenue, Tavern is a bustling and artistic food epicenter that lies below the main road. Brainchild of designer and architect John Welsh, Tavern is an eatery created by the genius and passion of an artist rather than the monetary incentives of a businessman. Originally, Welsh was solely part of the design phase of the restaurant where he then became a small partner and ultimately majority owner. He describes his early involvement with the restaurant saying, "I thought it would be a fun hobby, turns out it’s a lot more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle." 

Also Read: Restaurant Review 1500 Ocean inside Hotel Del Coronado

Welsh’s progressive vision can be seen in every square inch of his restaurant, which is themed around salvage material. The walls are lined with recycled wood and brick, the chandeliers are flamboyantly mismatched and the rustic tables are set with mason jars, candles and sunflowers. As I talked more with Welsh about the aesthetic feel of the restaurant, he explained to me the goal of his layout: "The idea is for people to feel comfortable. Like the food, the design is sophisticated but not intimidating, allowing for people to feel comfortable amidst the highest quality of food." This anti-esoteric view is part of what makes Tavern such an inviting place. I felt welcomed and, as Welsh had hoped, comfortable the entire time I was there. 

After taking an initial look at the menu, it became hard for me to put my finger on exactly what type of food Tavern serves. With an obvious influence from every corner of the world, I slowly came to realize that this was one of those fabled restaurants that everyone could enjoy. Head Chef, Itze’ Behar, decoded the tongues and palettes of the world. Coinciding with Welsh’s vision of a restaurant that is comfortable and sophisticated, Behar provides a menu filled with approachable dishes done at the highest level and with only the best ingredients. 

Hailing from nearby Mexico, Behar is an ambitious and intuitive chef. In her early 20’s she opened a restaurant in Mexico, earning lots of success for her diverse dishes. After working in various restaurants along the California coast and exchanging knowledge with prestigious chefs like John Paul Carmona and David Kinch, Behar met Welsh and their styles "clicked." Luckily for us, the result of this genius duo is the mouthwatering and ever–changing menu of Tavern. 

During a conversation with Behar regarding the locality of her food, she explained to me that buying local isn’t her first priority, "I wouldn’t say buying local is my first priority. I simply look for the highest quality seasonal ingredients and often that means local." She further explains, "To be female in this industry means facing adversity. Now that I’m here, I want to offer meals similar to those cooked at home, only at a higher level. I want people to feel good when eating my food and I want families to feel safe in knowing that they are getting the best ingredients possible."

Welsh’s and Behar’s creative visions mesh to create a beautiful, wide-ranging menu where comfort food meets fine dining. The menu features all the classics with a modern twist: a chicken pot pie with a fresh, flaky puff pastry crust or a burger whose patty is both bacon and beef, topped with blistered shisheto peppers.

My first course, Suzie’s Farm Organic Winter Squash Soup, was a meal in strong support of their philosophy. The soup, which is only on the menu while squash is in season, contains maple syrup, brown butter, creme fraiche, green tomato croutons, crispy Spanish chorizo, and three types of squash. The result: excellent. Its creamy consistency was full of flavor but not heavy, like other cream-based soups. As I ate, I began to further understand what John meant about sophisticated yet approachable comfort food. 

Chef Behar also served to me one of her favorites, the Grilled Local Halibut Tacos. With Behar’s established coastal reputation, I had high expectations for anything she cooked involving fish and she met and exceeded every one of those expectations with this scrumptious meal. Composed of fresh halibut, green cabbage, red onions, lime crema, quick-pickled radish, herb pico de gallo, topped with cilantro microgreens and laid on a bed of hand made corn tortillas produced in–house, this dish defined for me just how Behar transformed Tavern from drinking hole to fine restaurant. 

Even the bar program circulates around Tavern’s ethos of fresh and high-quality ingredients. Filip Zaborek, Tavern’s bar manager, describes the bar’s style is simple, fresh terms: "We’re concentrating on fresh juices, homemade syrups, a fantastic array of spirits, and a great line-up of local San Diego craft beers." The cocktail menu is full of a variety of tantalizing treats, including the Blueberry Jam Gin Cocktail, designed by Zaborek himself and mixed with only the finest, freshest ingredients and spirits, including imported blueberry jam. Tavern also recently began infusing their own spirits. My personal favorite? The house-infused strawberry tequila, which makes the best margarita in the world. 

The concept of Tavern is one I’ve never before encountered. Behar and Welsh mastered the art of taking dishes and creating new, healthier, tastier versions of those beloved classics. The duo has blown expectations out of the proverbial water in their mission to provide an extraordinary and unique dining experience.