Suit Yourself: Dress Well for the Modern Man

Men are becoming more like women—in a cosmetic sense, that is. Not only has menswear grown slimmer—thanks in large part to Saint Laurent Paris designer Hedi Slimane’s campaign for the male skinny jeans—but men have grown increasingly cognizant of the fact that impressions do indeed leave a lasting mark. The tailoring and, ultimately, refinement of a man’s style and hygiene are fundamental to obtaining savoir–faire. Appearance shapes the mark one leaves behind after that first hello and before that last goodbye. It is the screen by which one’s image, and dare I say words, are filtered—thereby influencing another’s perception.

And, by enhancing one’s natural beauty, one can directly affect their impression on another, in either a positive or negative manner, and therefore either benefit or harm their respective reputation. I like to call it stylistic manipulation: an art form women have been keen on for centuries, while we men have, more often than not, laid dormant out of fear of compromising our loaded ideas of masculinity.

Let’s take perhaps one of the most enduring staples of men’s fashion—the tailored suit. Whether you’re bound to a cubicle or a creative type, the suit is the basic building block of professionalism. It’s a timeless, ever–adaptable (albeit limited) uniform suitable for manifold occasions. The importance rests not solely in the details, but in the basics as well; for, without a suitable foundation, all else will burst at the seams. 

The contemporary, suited man’s impact rests in subtlety. He steers clear of aggressive plaids, pompous pinstripes, and choppy four–button jackets. Mixing this with mens gray business casual shirts can also create a unique look, which is perfect for a day at the office or a night out. Henceforth, the message is one of suitable confidence and a sense of togetherness. His statement rests in the lack thereof. And his confidence and cohesiveness are a result of fine, or rather accurate, tailoring. The fit is fundamental to properly executing a suit. It doesn’t matter if it’s $200 or $2,000, wool or cashmere–lined, two–button or three.

A properly fitted suit must hug the modern man’s shoulders, not slouch off or pinch them. Most men tend to size up when, in actuality, a size down is needed. When pulling on a jacket, there should be a firmness to it; it should snap one into attention and erect one’s posture. The sleeves ought to be trimmed of excess fabric—think slim fit—and should end just above the hinges of your wrists, so a quarter to half–inch of shirt cuff shows. The jacket must contour to the body; have a tailor nip it at the sides in order to accentuate your shoulders. And, to produce a streamlined, clean look, flat–front pants, cut slim, with very little break at the ankle are the contemporary man’s go–to. 

Pushing past the fundamentals of a suit, the details are the stylistic coating of the ensemble; they’re what seal the suit in just the right amount of dapperness. A suit’s lapels and buttons play an integral role in the suit’s character.

Lapels, the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, are divided into three groups: the notch lapel, the peak lapel, and the shawl lapel. The notch lapel is defined by a "notch," where the bottom of the collar and the top of the lapel connect at a 75 to 90-degree angle. Also known as the steeped lapel, the notch lapel is the most versatile; suitable for most body types, and a definite wardrobe staple. With edges pointed up to your shoulders, the peak, or pointed, lapel is traditionally the most formal of lapels; it’s suitable for weddings, formal dinners, and black tie events. Lastly, the shawl lapel, commonly seen on dinner jackets or tuxedos, is characterized by a rounded edge, without breaks or points such as the notch or peak lapels.

Two or three buttons, you ask? Two. A finely tailored three–button suit may work, but a two–button suit is much more reliable, no matter your shape or size. Suits with low–button stances are also more favorable as they create a long, slimming torso, in comparison to a higher–profiled button stance.

Keep the details to a well–defined minimum and one’s bound to execute his outfit appropriately. And just remember, if the suit doesn’t fit well, it will show. No matter how many martinis you down...or sip.