A Fashion Revolution

For decades, the white tents sprouting up in Bryant Park, New York were the tipping point of an energy that was almost tangible—to step foot inside these tents of lore separated the fashion world’s Who’s-Who from the Have-Nots. Now, gone are the tents of Bryant Park and the days of die-hard devotees sneaking a peak backstage; New York Fashion Week has morphed into a global soiree. What was originally known as Press Week of New York, NYFW went viral five years ago when bloggers began taking up seats that were once strictly reserved for press and buyers. This year marks the fifth year of runway shows being live-streamed worldwide, a decision which still receives both backlash and approval. NYFW runs September 7th through the 14th and remains the hardest ticket to score in the city that never sleeps, but fashion on a whole has become more accessible.

The fashion industry held a firm stance on exclusivity up until five years ago when London’s Fall 2010 season made a full-court press towards accessibility by live-streaming major fashion brands Alexander McQueen and Burberry. New York responded in full at the Spring 2011 season showcase when every fashion label live-streamed their shows from their own respective websites.  

Fast forward to this past February, and London was at it again. Burberry upped the ante at London Fashion Week when their live-stream featured clickable icons. To industry shock-and-awe, these icons allowed not only instant access to the coming season’s trends, but they permitted both fashion elite and your everyday chic to snap up the wares as they charged down the catwalk in real time. This September’s NYFW Spring 2017 season will see multiple fashion brands live-streaming with the clickable-purchase model on the website seenowbuynow.net. With heavy-hitters like Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Rebecca Minkoff on board, the entire fashion world is hemmed on the four words that mark this season’s hottest trend: See Now, Buy Now. 

Traditionally, fashion houses showcase their lines six months in advance of the current season. Buyers place their orders, the press editorializes the lines and voila, the collections show up in stores six months later to anticipating consumers. In March, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) conducted a study with the unanimous consensus that this model may go the way of the Bryant Park tents. The CFDA released a statement saying, "In recent years, evolutions in technology, consumer behaviors and needs, weather and physical seasons, and retail have challenged the role and impact of the current fashion system… The time is ripe for change in our market. ‘In-season relevancy’ emerged as a recurring idea." 

This in-season relevancy has been shaking up the industry ever since. Designers will no longer showcase future seasons, but will instead show the current season; consumers will be able to purchase with a shortened lag time. From runway to closet in weeks—even days—throughout the better part of a year.  

While the CFDA represents the interests of American designers, the French are not impressed. The CFDA’s French counterpart (which oversees Paris Fashion Week), the Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode (try saying that five times fast) has balked at the live-stream trend and sits in staunch opposition to London and New York’s stance to allow access to the masses. Federation president Ralph Toledano minced nary a word when he spoke with Women’s Wear Daily this spring following the warm reception of Burberry’s See Now, Buy Now show. "We have a common position on this issue. What is Paris? Paris is undisputedly the fashion capital of creation. As far as we are concerned, the present system is still valid."  

With storied fashion labels such as Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Hermès, and Nina Ricci represented by the Federation, time will only tell how this fashion revolution will play out. But in an election year that has been marred by polarization and the nationalist spirit still looming from the Olympics, the fashion industry’s illustrious Big 4 (London, Paris, New York and Milan) are in the midst of a full-scale "democratization of fashion" bout, all with heavy-hitters in their corners and no one holding any punches. The lines have been drawn in the sand between traditional Milan and Paris and nouveau-media embracing London and New York—and no one is backing down.  

On September 7th, when New York Fashion Week kicks off the Big 4 spring season, the high stakes of the fashion world will collide with high fashion in a season not to be missed.  Despite the flux of the industry’s fashion system, one thing that will never go out of style is the coveted NYFW front row. If you’re lucky enough to be sitting front row at 7:00 pm EST on September 7th at Tom Ford’s show, then you’re in for treat: fashion with a side of history in the making.  Tom Ford’s Spring 2017 collection will showcase… his Fall 2016 line. Ford cancelled his NYFW appearance in February to forgo the current Fashion System and saved his Fall showcase for the fall. Ford is also premiering the shoppable site seenowbuynow.net for anxious glitterati who want to be fall fabulous now.  

From exclusive invitation-only showings to live-streamed events, from fashion six months in advance to see-to-shop convenience. The fashion industry—an industry based on poise and tradition—is changing once again. While London and New York embrace the new, Milan and Paris cling stubbornly to convention. Will they let go of their pride and join the digital revolution? Only time will tell.

Other Shows You Can’t Miss

Alexander Wang dipped his toe in the See Now, Buy Now wading pool this May by introducing a Resort capsule collection that was instantly accessible, but will stick to a spring collection in September. There are also rumors of an Adidas-Alexander Wang collaboration being debuted in September, which would soar to the top of the year’s most covetable list. Alexander Wang shows September 10th at 9:00pm EST.  

Speaking of Adidas collaborations, one would be remiss not to mention Yeezy Season 4. After a last minute heist of the Fall 2016 NYFW calendar in February that sent Fashion Week into a tailspin, Kanye West showcased his Adidas Collaboration, Yeezy Season 3, to a packed Madison Square Garden while concurrently performing his newest album, Life of Pablo and live-streaming the whole thing to 20 million people on Tidal. Unsurprisingly, West has been tight-lipped on Yeezy Season 4 except to say it will be a children’s line.   

Naeem Khan will close out the week with his unmistakable haute couture on September 14th. Khan’s Spring 2017 Ready-To-Wear Line is coming on the heels of a successful Spring 2017 Bridal Showcase, in which Khan introduced a short shift wedding dress. Naeem Khan shows September 14th at 12:00pm EST. 

Hashtags to Watch for:

#detailsofnyfw: An insiders view of the designers’ collections with close-up, detailed shots of craftsmanship.

#runwayinmotion: A fashion highlight reel of the best videos of the week. 

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